South of town in the vast sage flats of the high desert sits a massive dome of sandstone with one of the most attainable summits around. The Regular Route, a.k.a. the Cowboy Route, so named after the legend that the first ascent was bagged by local cowboys, is a three pitch route that can be done by the whole family - cowboy boots not recommended! The summit affords amazing views of the La Sal mountains, Canyon Rims Recreation Area, and beyond towards Canyonlands National Park. The icing on the cake however is the descent: a free-hanging 110 ft rappel through an arch into a massive amphitheater. An optional rope swing through the amphitheatre is an exhilarating way to finish the tour!
Looking Glass Rock- 5.7
Desert Towers & Summits
Ancient Art- 5.10 (5.8 /A0)
With one of the most approachable and sought after summits in the desert, Ancient Art makes an excellent first desert tower experience. Rated 5.10, it is nevertheless suitable for most climbers with a basic level of climbing as the crux sections are short and easily bypassed, leaving enjoyable 5.8 for the remainder of the route. Each pitch is a unique experience, from 3D stemming through a bizarre petrified mud chimney to an airy catwalk with sheer exposure on either sides to the famous corkscrew summit that you have to see to believe. Ancient Art is a must do for every tower bagger!
Abraxas Tower- 5.9+
This fun intermediate route located a few miles outside of Moab tops out the Abraxas Tower, named for an ancient diety that was often depicted with the head of a fowl. The first pitch (5.9+) will test your crack skills; it's mostly hands but with a few moves of other sizes thrown in for good measure. Pitch two (5.9) burrows into a chimney behind the tower, beginning as a squeeze and gradually widening into a stem the higher we climb. The chimney ends at our summit: a perfectly flat perch with birds-eye views of Kane Creek Canyon and the nearby Tombstone formations. This is a very approachable route and requires a wide array of techniques of a moderate level.
There might not be a more iconic tower than Castleton. When the words Desert Tower are spoken, its stately image might be what comes to mind. Situated in its commanding position high over Castle Valley, this spire becons the climber to its lofty summit. We offer two paths to this most sought after prize, the Kor-Ingalls (5.9+) route, one of the 50 Classic Climbs, and the North Chimney (5.9+). Both routes are a physical test of a wide array of techniques, and it is highly recommended to take our intermediate rock course prior to attempting these challenges. The reward, however, is one that must be experienced by any climber that vists the Moab area.